Why should I upgrade to RT/Powercore?

Dynamometer technology has taken a quantum leap with the introduction of RT/PowerCore featuring WinPEP 8 from DynoJet Research.

Many new features have been added which will allow for better more stable data acquisition. The days of having to deal with a 100/400 RPM lag from front to rear cylinder are gone — as both cylinders can be monitored at the same time with no lag. The stack is new. The AFR module is new. The Eddy Brake controller, pickup card and wheel, as well as the atmospheric probe, are all new.

Gone is the one tang pick up wheel. It’s been replaced with a sixteen slot wheel, meaning higher resolution and cleaner data. A Powervision can be used as a DLM (Delphi/Data Link Module), and it works with both J1850 and HD Lan or Can Bus systems, giving you the ability to log up to thirty six different channels and view the data right in the wp8 file. This is a huge advantage when trying to diagnose those difficult to locate anomalies, which we sometimes encounter during the tuning process. A digital fuel pressure gauge can be hooked inline and display real time fuel pressure, right on the main screen during data acquisition.

As a professional dyno tuner and trainer, I can honestly say I’d never go back. For me, the added capabilities have proven to be a game changer. The added functionality has made identifying issues more efficient and the simplified math of not having to deal with two different lag times cuts calibration time down considerably.

Daniels Performance has developed refined procedures in conjunction with DynoJet to help you standardize the data acquisition process making it easier for you to efficiently collect and analyze the data and make better calibrating and tuning decisions.

As the old faithful Dynoware EX and Winpep7 make their way into legacy status, there’s no better time than the present to get ahead of the curve and upgrade to the new system. Harley-Davidson Service Schools just upgraded both their training Dyno’s to the new system and all future training at HDU will be on WinPep8.

For more information visit www.dynojet.com or www.dynotraining.com


Street Legal Performance with Screamin Eagle Pro Street Tuner

Answers to your Pro Street Tuner Questions


Answering Your Questions about EPA, ARB, Super Tuner and Pro Street Tuner


What will we do without Super Tuner? And since Pro Street Tuner is EPA-compliant, will it actually make a power difference?


We’ve been getting a lot of questions about this, so I thought I’d answer them for all of you here.


The writing has been on the wall for years. It is not the first time the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and/or the Air Resource Board (ARB) (formerly known as CARB) have handed out penalties and fines. Dynojet, Daytona Twin Tech, West Coast Choppers, Volkswagen . . . These are just a few of the companies that have received fines over the past several years.
Power Basics

No tuner really increases the power of a motorcycle. Instead, it allows you to make modifications to the engine that will make power. The only way an internal combustion engine makes more power is by flowing/ combusting more air.

There is nothing in any tuner available for Harley’s Screamin Eagle or aftermarket that can increase airflow.

The only way to make more power is to increase airflow in the RPM range you want to make power in. And the only way to do that is by changing hard parts, cams, heads, exhaust, big bore or stoker kits. Of course, if you increase airflow, you need to increase fuel – or maybe adjust the timing which is where a tuner comes in.

When we use a tuning tool like Super Tuner or Pro Street Tuner, we tell the ECM what the new airflow is from the new hard parts, and maybe the new injector size and/or engine size. It really is a paint-by-number job.
The actual “Black Magic” in making power is in matching the components (heads, cams, exhaust, etc.) to get the optimum airflow for the RPM range you want to ride. You just can’t grab any cam/head/exhaust and get the results you want. The components need to complement each other.

Over all my years of tuning, this is the most common mistake I have seen. People don’t pick a cam to match their heads, and/or and exhaust to match the cam and heads.

Another common mistake is misunderstanding Horsepower and Torque. I did a blog post about it a couple years ago here http://harleytuner.com/horsepower-torque.

The short version is this: Peak horsepower on Harley big twins happens near 6000 RPM. Most people don’t ride there, and those that claim they do must have less traffic and more forgiving police than the rest of us. You want your power to be where you ride. Trying to pass on a two-lane road, pulling into traffic . . . generally the lower and mid RPM ranges.

For me, bottom-end and midrange torque is what I want on my street bike. I have said for years that if I hit 6000 RPM on my Harley, other than on a dyno, I must have missed a shift.

Why not Super Tuner?

Now I can build a calibration with Super Tuner that would meet ARB/EPA standards. However, to be legal for public road use, I would have to pay to have it tested by ARB and receive their stamp of approval, which the EPA recognizes. Then it would have to be locked so no one could make big changes to it. Simple enough, sure. But it takes several months and costs thousands of dollars just to approve the one calibration. Not really practical for every motorcycle you tune.

Can you make EPA/ARB legal power increases?

Harley-Davidson’s Screamin Eagle manufactures performance kits “Matched Hard Parts/Components” to increase power at different RPM ranges. The kits have been tested to be EPA-compliant, and as you probably know, come in different stages for different power increases in different RPM ranges. Something for almost everyone. If you have work at a Harley dealer, you are probably familiar with these kits and know that they really do perform very well.

Just like any engine mods that affect airflow, installing these kits require changes in the fuel, ignition and other areas of the calibration.

This is where the ARB/EPA-compliant Pro Street Tuner comes in. EPA/ARB legal Street Tuner has been around for years. Now we have the new improved Pro Street Tuner to legally dial in calibrations for these Street Legal Performance kits.

Real Power Increases!? Really??

I might be showing my age, but back in the late 60s, early 70s, the U.S. auto industry was putting out some real high-powered cars. When the EPA cracked down on the auto industry, it led to a decade or more of less-than-stellar performing cars. Some people thought it was the death of high performance cars in the U.S.

We now know that is not the case, and in fact it might have been one of the best things to happen to the auto industry. It forced the auto industry to rethink how they did things, think outside of their small boxes, and make more powerful, yet efficient, engines. Look at the New Dodge Challenger, Chevy Camaro, and Ford Mustang.

Don’t believe in ARB/EPA-compliant power? Go drive my current favorite car the 2017 Corvette Grand Sport! 460 Horsepower, 0-60 in 3.6 seconds, that’s faster than most motorcycles 0-60 time, including the Harley Livewire!

You can even buy aftermarket performance products for your cars that are ARB/EPA-approved. The difference here is Harley has been developing and selling ARB/EPA-legal kits for years. So they had a head start and are ready for this.

When used with Pro Street Tuner, the Screamin Eagle kits make great power increases over stock, and HD has spent hundreds of thousands of dollars to make sure they are ARB-compliant.

The key is you have to stick with the kits, including their recommended exhaust. These kits are not just ARB/EPA-compliant. They are components meticulously matched to work to complement each other for the best power increase for their RPM range.

Every motorcycle is just a bit different especially when you start modifying them. Pro Street Tuner has enough adjustable to calibrate it for the exact kit on the bike you have installed it on.

It is still faster and more complete to do this on a dyno. But Pro Street tuner makes it easier than ever for shops that don’t have a dyno to dial as well.

Another thing I have been saying for years. “No company or person has spent as much time and money researching what makes these engines make power as Harley-Davidson Motor Co.”

Simply put HD knows these engines better than anyone.

If you want to learn more about performance tuning and/or dyno operation, please visit our website and sign up for a class.



HDU In-Dealer and Pro Street Tuner Training

Announcing HDU In-Dealer and Pro Street Tuner Training

Class Details:

  • Up to 4 techs per class.
  • 3-day class
  • EFI with Pro Street Tuner Winpep 7 or 8
  • Windows computer experience required
  • All training includes inspection of your Dyno equipment/room.
  • Classes run 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., with an hour lunch.
  • Instructor shows up 8:30 day 1 for set-up
  • You can request different times. If you need a different schedule, please ask.

What you get:

  • A Harley Davidson University/Dynojet approved instructor at your shop
  • We go over your Dyno equipment including pumps computers and room
  • Make sure it is up to speed for safe quality accurate, safe training/tuning
  • Make a list of recommended repairs/upgrades
  • Instruct your techs how to use the software in a comfortable environment (in your break/conference/class room with your or our projector)
  • Demo the Dyno operations for the course
  • Coach your techs through Dyno/computer exercises
  • Access to our members only tuner tech support website.
  • Listed on our online recommended tuners list.

We supply:

  • Projector with Laptop
  • Pro Street Tuners to use in class

You supply:

  • A place to use as a class room, with a projection screen, or a light colored wall, or similar to project on, or big screen TV
  • 2007 or newer EFI Harley-Davidson Motorcycles for training (Motorcycles do not need Pro Street Tuners as we supply them)
  • Qualified techs, willing to learn
  • Dynamometer in a well-ventilated room

Before scheduling, your site must be approved, which involves filling out aquestionnaire about your equipment — with pictures of your equipment and carbon monoxide readings.

Once approved, you secure your dateswith a deposit. The balance is due the first day of training.

Call or email with questions.

Daniels Performance
We do Dyno and EFI training contact us about scheduling a class in your shop.

You will find more Tuning & Dyno tips on our Members Only Site as well as Tutorials, Videos, Downloads,…

Mike Daniels
Dyno Tool Store


Super Tuner: The Sky Isn’t Falling

Super Tuner: The Sky Isn’t Falling
By Russ Fullen

 The Sky Isn’t Falling

The announcement of an agreement between the EPA and Harley-Davidson® to discontinue sales of the Screaming Eagle Pro Super Tuner® represents the end of an era for sure. But the sky isn’t falling.

The Motor Company will continue offering performance upgrades going forward. The difference being the new “performance kits” will be in compliance with EPA and ARB standards going forward. The days of “Race Use Only” performance products commonly ending up on “Street Bikes” is going to come under much more scrutiny by the Federal Government. Those who do not take heed will be faced with stiff penalties. This doesn’t come as much of a surprise to industry insiders. With enforcement actions and fines being levied against manufacturers of exhaust systems and tuning products by the California Air Resources Board for over a decade now, it was just a matter of time until the EPA started enforcing its regulations as well.

So, why do I say the sky isn’t falling?

Because we are an industry of innovators!

Harley-Davidson® is ready to launch brand new performance kits which produce very substantial performance gains and meet both ARB and EPA standards. The aftermarket performance world will have to follow suit. It will be tougher, and quite likely more expensive to get performance kits through the additional compliance testing. But the industry will rise to the occasion. Tuning products will have to be changed and updated to work with a specific set of components in order to meet more stringent regulations.

We have spoken to many Dyno Tuning Centers since the announcement who are fearful this will maim or destroy the dyno tuning business.

We think those fears are just the initial knee-jerk reaction to a major change to the way we do business—and are not backed up by fact.

Using tuning products with more limited parameters will make dyno tuning more relevant, not less. The need for accuracy is heightened, not diminished! You can try to “street tune” all you want for days on end, and you will never be able to recreate the level of accuracy and repeatability offered by dyno tuning by a competent dyno operator. The major advantage of using a dyno such as DynoJet’s 250i series is simply that we can hit every cell your motorcycle is capable of running in and collect accurate, repeatable data in just a few minutes. We can use this data as always to build custom maps which take into account bike to bike variances.

The need for trained dyno technicians and state of the art testing equipment just became more important than ever.

Daniels Performance is already hard at work developing the next level of training and support for your tuning and training needs. We will be ready to launch the next generation of dyno training very quickly! We will continue to offer the most comprehensive dyno and tuning product training in the industry. And we look forward to continuing to help the best dealers in the motorcycle industry reach their goal of providing the best-tuned motorcycles possible—all while meeting the new regulatory requirements. Visit our website www.danielsperformance.com for more information on this change or to schedule us to come to your shop.




Decel Pop!

Decel Pop
Understand that it is the performance parts we use that cause popping on deceleration. Mostly the exhaust systems. So popping goes hand n hand with high performance race engines.
Any thing you do to the TUNE (Fuel & Timing) out the decal pop is a band aide not an actual fix.

First thing is to try and fix the problem.
Second thing is to band aide with tuning.

Exhaust popping can be very different bike to bike. There is some decel popping you just cannot fix.
We found that a few little things could help most of it.

Addressing the problem

Decel  pop is un-burnt fuel igniting in the pipe. generally caused by oxygen being introduced to the exhaust causing it to get hotter and ignite the fuel. Exhaust leaks, and/or open baffles allow this extra oxygen into the system.

  • Use factory exhaust gaskets on pipes you can. Not the thin ones like SE has as they leak as well.
  • It can be common for exhaust nuts to come loose at the head during Dyno runs and even normal riding.
  • Make sure the exhaust is properly Installed, aligned and tightened.
  • With all the exhaust installed and all the fasteners finger tight. Torque/tighten in 2 or 3 stages starting at the head and working your way down to the brackets at the end for each stage.
  • Screamin Eagle riv nuts: Dont use them. A hex shaped rivnut does not seal proper in a round hole. (Must be a member to View)
    • Use these from our store with the Scream Eagle kits.
    • More important than the leaking affecting decel pop, it affected your calibration causing you to calibrate the bike too rich. On top of the riding issues experienced in other Air conditions (Temp, Pressure, Altitude)  caused by this being too rich in open loop areas can cause more fuel to build up in the pipe which will cause more decel pop.

Tuning tips to reduce pop. “Band Aides”

  • Spark Tables: Advance the timing in the decel column from highest rpm to lowest that won’t change the timing at idle. This will vary based on the spark table columns and what kpa the bike idles at.
    • Example: If the lowest column on your Spark table is 15 kpa and the bike idles at 35 kpa you can advance the timing in the 15kpa column all the way to 1000 RPM
    •  Example: If the bike idles at 25kpa (middle of 20 &30kpa columns) and the lowest column is 20 kpa then you should not change the timing for decel pop any lower than 1750 rpm. 1500rpm and below may effect cold to hot idle.
  • Air Fuel Ratio Table: Fuel wise you have 2 choices.
    • 1. Lean the mixture trying to reduce the amount of fuel in the pipe when the injectors come back on.
    • 2. Richen the mixture trying to cool the exhaust to prevent the un-burnt fuel from igniting.
    • Harley’s as a rule respond better to richening the fuel for decel. However, if that doesn’t give the desired results try leaning it out on decel
    • Like the spark table the Decel column will be the lowest kpa on the Air Fuel Ratio table.
      • Same idle rules as we discussed above for the spark table apply. Be careful not to make it idle too rich or lean chasing decel pop.
  • VE Tables: Last Resort. I rarely have to use the VE tables for decel pop band aiding. Only use it as a last resort… please fix the exhaust leaks first! Richen with bigger VE, Lean with smaller VE
    • Throttle based VE tables be careful not to change the idle area.
    • MAP based: VE tables Same idle rules here as for the spark tables.
      • Caution: Motorcycles at a low load cruise in the mid rpm may be running below 30 kpa and 3500 RPM. If you are changing the 20 kpa column on a VE table you may cause issues with cruise.

You will find more Tuning & Dyno tips on our Members Only Site as well as Tutorials, Videos, Downloads,…

Mike Daniels
Dyno Tool Store



Using Rivnut kits to sample exhaust.

On some exhaust systems – like the Vance and Hines Power Duals, the best way to sample the exhaust at each cylinder is with a rivnut kit.

Looking at the popular kits

There are several companies that make rivnut exhaust sampling kits, including Dynojet and Screamin Eagle.

Tools: Both kits come with quality rivnut installation tools.


Screamin Eagle: We have had several issues with leaking from the Screamin Eagle hex-shaped rivnut. Please understand: When we say ‘leak,’ we’re referring to Oxygen (O2) leaking past the rivnut into the pipe. Every exhaust leak is also an O2 leak. The Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) gauges on the dynos we all use have Wide Band O2 (oxygen) sensors. Any oxygen that enters the pipe not from the combustion chamber will cause your AFR to read lean, and you to calibrate/tune the bike too rich.

I think most people don’t appreciate how sensitive this is. Most of the oxygen that enters the combustion chamber is burned during combustion. The amount of O2 in the pipe that we measure with our O2 sensors to calculate the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) is minimal. What seems like a small leak can make a very big difference in your readings.  Every week, we get dyno run files through our tech form that have O2 data which is corrupted from a leak.

A hex-shaped nut just doesn’t seal correctly in a round hole.   We HIGHLY recommend you do not use them. Instead use knurled round rivnuts. We have sourced replacement rivnuts on Amazon. They’re eligible for Prime shipping, so they’ll get to you in two days (if you’re a Prime member). These rivnuts work with the Screamin Eagle tool – and the fitting that attaches the metal sample tube to it.

Dynojet: The rivnuts with the Dynojet kit are knurled, round rivenuts and when installed correctly do not leak. They are metric so they will not work with the Screamin Eagle kit.

Installation tips:

  • Pick a spot under the heat shield on the outside of the pipe that you can drill easily with the drill perpendicular to the pipe.
    • Make sure the spot does not interfere with the heat shield straps, O2 sensors, bungs, etc.
    • Closer to the exhaust port reduces chances of reversion contamination like cross talk or leaks at pipe connections.
  • To help get a round hole for a good seal hold the drill perpendicular to the pipe and steady.
    • Drill the hole slowly
    • With a small bit.
    • Then open it up with an in-between bit.
    • Drill final size.
  • Read the instruction for the installation tool you have.
    • Use the rivnut tool according to the instructions.
    • Hold it perpendicular to the pipe and tight against it when squeezing/setting the rivnut, following the tool’s instructions.


Sample tubes:

Dynojet uses a banjo-type system, which attaches the sample tubes at parallel to the exhaust pipe with copper sealing washers.

Screamin Eagle uses an adapter that attaches the sample tube perpendicular to the exhaust pipe with a flare fitting.


  • Use High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize on the threads of the Screamin Eagle fitting or Dynojet Bolt.
    • Only on the threads, not in the holes or tubes.
  • To help keep the high temp neoprene hose from melting and losing its seal, the metal sample tube needs to be a certain length. Do not cut them shorter.
    • It is ok to put slight bends in the tubes.
  • Route the tubes so they will not rub on anything, including your leg.
  • It is common for the tubes to loosen with heat cycles. Check them regularly throughout the dyno runs, and keep an eye for the gauge to start showing leaner indicating a leak.

Plug Bolts:

Dynojet uses a button head bolt with a copper washer.

Screamin Eagle uses a hex bolt.

Both fit under the heat shields and work fine if you never have to remove them.

Tip: While there are no guarantees, you can greatly increase your odds of removing the blot/plug and using the rivnut again by using a Brass Hex Head Bolt (¼ 20 for Screamin Eagle) with High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize.

Have any tips to add? Give us a shout. We love to learn new things and share what we learn.

Keep an eye on our Dyno Tool Store as we are always adding to it and updating it.





Now offering training on new Dynojet Dynamometer hardware Dynoware RT & Powercore featuring Winpep 8

Daniels Performance now offers training using the new Dynojet Dynamometer hardware “Dynoware RT” and software suite “Powercore” featuring “Winpep 8”.

Starting in the fall of 2015 all Super Tuner classes at HDU will exclusively use the new hardware/software.

As always we have been working closely with Dynojet on developing training and procedures using the new hardware and software.

The improved capability of the new hardware and differences in the way runs are done between 7 and 8 have allowed us to create a more efficient way of doing runs for calibrating/tuning Super Tuner and other flash tuners.

The methods we will be using are more consistent across the board making learning how to work with the year to year, model to model differences in Harleys easier to learn.

The new Dynoware RT allows sampling of both cylinders (up to 8) using the same equipment. Unlike what we did with Winpep-7. This allows the lag on the readings to be the same for both (all) cylinders making VE editing much simpler.

We will be posting a tutorial and tips for using the new hardware/software on our member site soon.
Look for our list of recommended upgrades for RT/Powercore coming soon.


Schedule your training today at:

Harley Davidson University.

Thanks for your time,
Mike Daniels


FYI: Dynojet will stop officially supporting Winpep-7 in June of 2017 Winpep

Some of the components used in the manufacture of the old dynoware-EX are no longer manufactured. Dynojet states that “Dyno-EX will be supported as long as Dynojet still has the parts.”






Adjusting timing while tuning a Harley on a Dyno

Recently I was asked for some information and suggestions for adjusting the timing while tuning a bike  on a dynamometer.

In our classes we teach that in most cases if you pick a good calibration the ignition table should be great as far as peak power goes. The most critical component of chasing peak power numbers on a dyno is doing the runs correctly. Engine temp, oil temp, tire temp,… are some of the things that can change peak power numbers run. Which can easily be confused with an adjustment made by a tech to timing or some other table. More on this in a future post. You can learn more about Horsepower and Torque on a dyno here: http://harleytuner.com/horsepower-torque

Before adjusting timing you need to understand what you are doing.
The simplest way to explain it is timing is temperature management.
When you ignite a specific volume of air/fuel it makes a specific amount of heat. Changing (timing) when you ignite it changes what you do with the heat. As an example. Near the end of the power stroke the exhaust valve starts to open. The later you ignite it (less timing) the more of the heat you send out the exhaust.

“Increasing the timing heats the engine and cools the exhaust”
“Decreasing the timing Cools the engine and heats the exhaust”

Most important thing to remember with chasing numbers using timing on the dyno is that advancing timing (heats engine) to make power can be a bad call.
On the Dyno we control the head temp and if we are chasing a pretty HP graph heads should be near 200F.  When the customer rides his bike head temps can be near 400F.
Advancing the timing in the peak power areas increases the the chance the bike will ping when ridden by the customer.  I have seen several pistons with holes in them over the years.

  1. Decreasing timing helps with pinging
  2. You can increase timing in the decel column (lowest kpa) to help with decel popping. Low load area no risk of ping
  3. you can change timing in the lowest rpm row to help with start up. I.E. decreasing timing can help with kickback.
  4. Increasing the timing in the wild-man area can help the bike feel better leaving a stop.

Obviously there is no hard rule “If you do this you will get this”. every bike and situation is different.


Until next time.
Ride Free





Which tuner should I buy?

This is a question I often get, so I thought I would share the most recent email asking it and my response.

I would like to learn more about tuners, how they work and how to tune my HD bikes. My wife and I each have newer touring Harleys. I put V&H Dresser Duals and Monster Ovals on mine,  Dresser Duals and Monster Rounds on hers as well as a high flow AC on each.  I currently Have a Thunder Max tuner on each bike and run the auto tune a couple times a year. They both seem to run well and we ride from home at 5700’ over passes that may be 10,000’ and down to sea level. I was looking at the Harley Forums and reading posts about tuners from riders and Professional tuners trying to find out what people think of the different types of tuners, ease of operation and end results. I found it confusing, some tuner was saying Thunder Max Alpha N platform for tuning was state of the art several years ago but not now. I wish I could find straight unbiased information or material that allows me to learn the different systems and make an informed decision. I’m thinking of buying a new Rushmore FLHTK and though I’ve been happy with the Tmax would I be happier with some thing else?

I was wondering if you could recommend any literature explaining tuning and tuners.  I’m interested in learning how to read and interpret tuning tables and make an educated adjustment if possible, or to at least understand what the tuner is doing and why.

Any information you can give me is appreciated.



My reply to Bill’s email
Hey Bill,
I started writing a Harley EFI blog that I update about once a month or so. www.harleytuner.com you might find some interesting info there from time to time.
Not totally sure where to start to answer your questions and may have to elaborate on some of it in a later email.

First let’s talk about EFI.

The biggest advantage of OEM production EFI in your Harley is that it should correct for ever changing air conditions. Temperature, Pressure, Humidity. Properly set up/calibrated/tuned should never need “re-tuned” ever.

Alpha N is older technology and pretty much is only used on some race vehicles these days. FYI – Race parts are not necessarily better, especially for milder street engines.

As I’m sure you know, most modern vehicles including Harleys use Speed Density systems. Which is what I have used on race bikes I have been involved with including “The Rooster” 2003 Road King my buddy bought new and we played with. Just under 140HP and 150 ftlbs of torque. Actually very smooth and rideable.

The Thundermax is a good ECM, especially for what it was originally designed for: “aggressive Race bikes”. Big Cams, Exhausts… Race bikes that you would constantly be playing with the tuning at the track during a race.
As you know the best part about the Thundermax is its wide band auto tune add-on module.

Delpi (maker of H-D’s ECM) has been building EFI/ECMs for longer than almost any other company in the world. It is very sophisticated. Way more advanced than the Thundermax.
I have been playing this game (tuning EFI Harleys) pretty much longer than most people, which is why companies like Dynojet, Harley-Davidson Motor Co, Vance & Hines, Rinehart Racing, Speeds Performance Plus,… hire me for consulting and contract work.

I can run anything I want on my bike, and most manufacturers would give me their product to run if I asked.

For me it’s a no brainer. My daily/cross country ride runs an HD factory (delpi) ECM with a Flash Tuner.
Dynojet Power Vision, Screamin Eagle Super Tuner, TTS Master Tune…all basically do the same thing. The software interface is different, some have different features than others, some Dyno operators/tuners are only familiar with one or two, but the bottom line goal for all of them is to re-calibrate the air tables in the ECM to match your engines new airflow created by the new parts/modifications you have added/done. Pipes, Airbox, cams, heads,…

If you calibrate the ECM to the true airflow of your engine on your Harley and then set up the tune correctly (Calibrate first, Tune second), your bike will not only properly correct for ever changing air conditions caused by weather Altitude, and climate changes it will be able to correct for minor fuel blend changes (gas vs 10% or 15% ethanol) and even help protect your engine from damage that could be caused by an intake leak if you were to get one.

The best part is as long as you don’t change any parts affecting your airflow you should never have to mess with it again, just ride year after year with the ECM doing what it was designed to.

I don’t have time to hit all the details as to how and why this is right now, but the hows/whys will be trickling into this blog over time

The most efficient way to do this is on a Dyno of course. But if you want to attempt it the way you have with your Thundermax then I would recommend you buy the Dynojet Power Vision with their auto tune module. Pick a pipe with dual bungs (big and little) so you can use the wide band O2 sensors and keep the stock O2 sensors in tack.

It is near impossible to hit all the cells riding the bike around that’s why a Dyno is great for this. I can hit nearly every cell in 10 minutes.

I have been told that it doesn’t matter because you hit the cells you ride in. Fact is you hit the cells you were riding in today. When you go up or down in the mountains you will ride different cells. If you load your bike for a trip you will ride in different cells. On the Dyno you can hit all the cells needed for every riding condition very quickly.

In a follow up email Bill asked if I could recommend a dyno operator/tuner near him.
I have a list of shops I have trained on my website: http://www.danielsperformance.com/Customers.html. I plan on adding a recommended Dyno tuner list to my website in the near future.

If you go Power Vision or Super Tuner I might be able to help you find a good base map to start with. I have a blog post with some insight into picking a base map http://harleytuner.com/super_tuner_map_selection/ but I might be able to get you one with closer air tables if you like.

FYI – The Rushmore TK has been my favorite bike to borrow from Harley’s Demo fleet for the past year. Great bike.

Take care,




Super Tuner map selection

How to select the right Super Tuner map for your Harley

As an instructor of Harley, EFI calibration with Super Tuner one of the most common mistakes I see people make is selecting the wrong   calibration/map file. Unlike piggy back boxes (i.e. Power Commander), Flash tuning products base cals can be very different from each other.  There are things, hundreds of little things, in the background of every Map/Calibration that make it critical you select the correct one for your motorcycle. One of the more critical things in the background of a base cal is when the MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensor is read. It is programmed into the background based on cam timing and reversion pulse (pressure wave) which travels through the intake. Besides determining engine load, this is how the ECM determines outside air pressure which, combined with the IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor, is used to determine the air density. It’s basically how the ECM knows how much oxygen is in the air. It uses this information to correct the fuel mixture for air condition fluctuations – temp, pressure, humidity – caused by weather and altitude changes.

If the MAP read is off, even if you calibrate your VE tables on a Dyno when the weather changes, the way the bike runs will change as well.

We will discuss proper calibration of the ECM in the future, but for now you should understand that the goal of using a flash tuner is to calibrate the air tables (VE tables) in the ECM to match the air flow through your engine. The actual “tuning” is done after.

Back to selecting a base Cal/map. We select a map for the the things we can’t change.

Here is the list – in the order of importance – we use to pick a base calibration to start with it.

  1.  Year/Family/Model
  2. Cam profile
    1. Intake open degrees (IO)
    2. Exhaust close degrees (EC)
  3. Exhaust System

For choosing a base map/cal, things you can change like Cubic Inches, Injector Size do not matter. You can change them to match your bike.

Year and model I think is pretty self explanatory.

The cam timing has a big effect on the timing of the pressure wave in the intake manifold. Especially the IO and EC. If you understand cam timing events, you may know that IO and EC determine valve overlap. It is critical you understand that the total degrees of overlap is not what we are looking at here. It is when the overlap occurs during the crankshaft rotation that matters for map selection.
pick a base map for a Screamin Eagle cam that has the same or as close as you can find Intake open degrees and exhaust closing degrees.

The exhaust can affect the timing of the pressure wave as well. However, Screamin Eagle doesn’t give you many choices as far as exhaust systems. If you find there are a couple of maps that match #1 & #2, and the one you try doesn’t seem to work so well, you can try one of the others. If you find it does work, make sure you save the exhaust info with its notes, so you can use it in a future bike with a similar set-up.

After you select your base cal/map, you set it up for your motorcycle.

  • Cubic Inches (a good rule is to set this at 1.1xHP as a start point)
  • Injector size
  • ACR
  • If you have VE tables from a map for a bike with similar cams/exhaust/heads… you can paste them into your base map
  • We also would modify or copy and paste ignition tables here if required.

You can set up a MAP gauge in Super Tuner to help see if the base cal MAP read is close. It i should idle at 25-35 kpa  and under a 100% throttle run the manifold pressure should match the air pressure in the room. I read the room pressure off the Dynojet Dyno. At sea level it should be close to 100 kpa. at higher elevations it should be less. Ambient air pressure will change some with the weather.


At this point if possible, we would flatten the Air Fuel Table put the bike on a Dyno and dial in the VE tables. We will discuss that more in a future post. as well as setting up the tune: air fuel table and closed loop.

Until next time.
Ride Free


Pilot Gear